Our goal for today was to visit the eastern part of KI – meaning back towards Penneshaw and exploring the coastal areas to the east of
American River. Everything else so far has been to the west of American River.
Our first stop was along a short dirt track from the main road,
on the southern coastline – Pennington Bay. And what a beautiful beach it was.
Possibly my favourite so far on the island. Dramatic cliffs, limestone rock
formations, sweeping, sandy beach, unhindered by washed up seaweed.
After dragging ourselves away from Pennington Bay we ventured
around to a small community called Sapphiretown, the other side of Pelican
Lagoon. Sapphiretown is directly across the water from American River and we
could see our house clearly on the opposite hillside.
From there we drove a short distance further on the main
sealed road towards Penneshaw before turning off on to a well kept dirt road
that led us to Cape Willoughby. This is on the eastern tip of KI. As we
approached the cape its vibrant white lighthouse revealed itself between the
trees. It was a lovely inviting welcome!
Once we arrived at the cape, we had some morning tea and
read a few signs, including of the dramatic story of the ship Kona which was
wrecked off the coast here, en route from the USA full of red wood timber – it had
sailed for over 70 days and was close to its destination of Port Adelaide when
it ran aground and was ripped apart.
We paid to have a look around the light house grounds, but
did not take a guided tour.
We then took a loop walk down to a rocky beach.
This area used to be where the light house keeper’s cottages were and the
landing spot where supplies were delivered. The current light house keeper's cottages, alongside the light house are 'replicas' and can be hired out to stay in. The rocky beach looked fabulous,
with the orange lichen covering the rounded rocks contrasting with the ocean and sky
colours. This truly is an island of contrasting colours!
We saw a lone kangaroo on the return to the light house. So
far we’ve been told that there are lots of roos on Kangaroo Island – which would
make sense given its name. But we’d seen more sheep than roos so far. I wondered
about suggesting to the powers that be, that they rename the island, Sheep Island. Doesn't sound so inviting though does it? KI roos are reputedly bigger
and darker in colour compared to their mainland cousins.
Climbing a stile into a paddock we walked around to the
other side of the light house where we enjoyed a fabulous view across the
cliffs towards the white beacon of light, with the ocean churning below us. Even where it crashes against cliffs it's still a rich blue colour, with pure white foamy bits.
We continued in a clock wise direction around the coast
towards Penneshaw, but our next stop was at another lovely beach and campground
at Antechamber Bay. Other than the camp ground, the only other sign of life… no
pun intended here was a small pioneer’s cemetery.
Next we found ourselves in Penneshaw where we had more of a
look around.
We then parked the car and embarked on a 3.5 km walk in the Baudin
Conservation Park – named after the French captain Baudin who explored this
area on his ship Le Geographe at the same time as Matthew Flinders. The walk was
called the Ironstone Hill Hike.
This walk gave us lovely views across the Backstairs Passage
back towards Cape Jervis. We saw the ferry come and go. Ethan spotted some
dolphins playing in a small bay. We found our 1300th geocache which
was memorable by its scramble up a very steep wooded and rocky hill!
The walk then took us to the ruins of Bates Cottage. Harry
Bates’ family moved to KI in about 1860 and this cottage was their home until
he died in 1936. Much of it has crumbled, the iron roof now pretty much sitting
on the ground as the walls have collapsed. Interesting piece of history though.
We saw a couple of wallabies and a very muscly kangaroo towards the end of the
walk. I’m sure this guy works out at a gym! Not wanting to be challenged to an arm wrestle, we moved on!
Our final destination, further around the coast and heading
back towards American River was Baudin Beach. We enjoyed the late afternoon
sunshine as it shimmered across the water. Pelicans waited with anticipation at
the boat ramp hoping for some generous returning fishermen.
Another long but interesting day found us back in American
River in time for dinner.
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