MacKenzie Falls are probably the best known of the many
waterfalls in the Grampians, and possibly the only one that flows all year
round. Our first stop on this morning’s outing was MacKenzie Falls. We were
greeted by a huge carpark – testament to the popularity of the place! There is
a newly completed toilet block and the remnants of the old kiosk which was lost
in the bush fires about five years ago. Ironically it is just the fireplace
that remains.
We began the walk to the base of the falls. No more than a
kilometre, but down hill all the way, much of it on steep slippery stairs.
Slippery from rain, but also slippery from the fine mist of spray emanating
from the falls.
Near the top, we stopped at the Broken Falls Lookout which
cantilevers over the gorge. From there it was a steady as you go descent to the
base of MacKenzie Falls.
Once at the
base of all the stairs, it’s a simple matter of crossing the creek over the
huge stepping stone boulders to look across the basin of water and up the towering
rock faces with the water powerfully plummeting from the top. It is pretty
impressive!
After enjoying the area for a while, we began the heart
pumping ascent back up the stairs. Once at the carpark, we caught our breath
and decided to walk to the MacKenzie Falls lookout – which was a simple,
reasonably flat walk to a look out that overlooks the whole valley. The falls
look so much smaller from this spot!
We again found ourselves at the large car park which was
quite crowded with vehicles. That was our cue to move on to somewhere quieter.
We had a quick stop at Lake Wartook – another man made dam / lake. It was not
as picturesque as Lake Bellfield in my opinion.
Next, we kept driving and found ourselves at Zumsteins
picnic area. Another place with an interesting history, Walter Zumstein, a
beekeeper began picnicking and camping at this spot on the MacKenzie River in
1912. He was a pioneer of the tourism industry, quickly establishing a camp
ground which became a popular place to holiday for many, many years. Walter built 3 cottages and even a swimming
hole. Unfortunately the cottages were extensively damaged in the same fires
that took out the kiosk up at the falls. It appears there is work going on to
restore the cottages. There is plenty of signage which tells the story of
Walter Zumstein and his Scottish wife. He sounds like he was not only a pioneer
of the tourism industry, but he was a pioneer greeny as he used to give kids
who visited a sapling which he had them plant, then if they returned they could
check out the growth of their adopted tree!
We took a short walk along the riverside, as well as took in
the story of the Zumsteins.
We then returned to the caravan for lunch before setting out
on another waterfall adventure in the afternoon. Another short easy walk found
us at Silverband Falls. Very different from MacKenzies, but picturesque in
their own right. A single band of water plummets off the top of the rocky
cliffs, to a stony creek bed below. We could walk on the stones right up and
almost under the cascade.
Another fun day exploring the beauty of nature in the
Grampians!
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